I’d say that plumbing is one of the few things I WANT to change in Italy. Keep the cobblestone streets, the creaking heavy doors, no-car walking zones, and even multi-storied climbs up with suitcases, but bathrooms?...their old world charm is limited. I know that changing the operating systems is costly and improbable, and it will never be OK to put any paper into the pipes but the availability of clean and comfortable toilets has evolved.
I think San Gimignano gets the award for the most beautifully integrated loos. Carved into a niche under stone arches, they plugged in sleek marble bathrooms with a 50 cent turnstile. There is some confusion as to how to get out but people aren’t so desperate at that point.
Siena’s got a great bathroom right in the parking lot but the machine ate 1.75 euro before admitting me for my 50 cent visit.
Vinci has just gone overboard and sleeked up and modernized the whole Leonardo museum along with the toilets. I really do miss the old charm...even the bathrooms.
Bathing was always a great experience but the best lingering bath award goes to the multi-jetted deep soaking tub at Hotel Alpina in Champex. After all that walking and climbing my quivering legs relaxed and I slept like a rock.
Suzanne and Giovanni have the most unusual tub. She called it the monkey tub. If you curl into a fetal position and use the shower wand you can get a bath but I tried standing on the rounded bottom and had a very quick rinse. To be fair...they did have another shower...outside across the patio. So many of these ancient buildings were built with little or no plumbing, so you have to be happy with what you can fit in.
And bidets...there are many uses…
Foot washing after dusty streets
Clothes washing when you run out of underwear
A place to put the toilet paper that’s hard to reach behind you
A place to put all of your extra toiletries
A foot prop to tie your tennis shoes
Or a plant stand
Bathrooms are a renowned places for accidents so that’s where I had mine. Peter and I stayed in the villa in Suvereto one night with Mary and Rick and Deb and Doreen and Dan because who wants to drive through the hills after an evening of eating and drinking? But I swear that’s not what caused the slip up...literal slip UP. I had on my reading glasses (I don’t know why) when I entered the bathroom with my hands full of stuff, and as I reached over to put it all in the bidet (of course) I didn’t see the 3” step up and before I knew it I was flipped around on my bum with my elbow in the toilet and one flip-flopped foot feeling broken. I’m pretty sure I yelled something inappropriate. Everyone came running. Rick brought me an ice pack and Mary a spray bottle of CBD oil so the next morning, after a good night’s sleep, I only had a black big toe and a huge bruise on the toilet arm.