Inspiration & Travel

1. Switzerland-Italy *Austin to Heathrow to Geneva...

WEDNESDAY MORNING…

Hooray! We made it to Heathrow...a little bleary but still pretty cheerful. I didn’t sleep at all. But the guy across the aisle did! He’d been at a conference in Austin about some sort of high fat diet...but he’s vegan...go figure. He’s thinking that he should start eating some responsible meat, like something a friend has shot or roadkill. He came all the way from Sweden to consider it. But the reason he slept so well was the CBD oil spray he’d bought in Austin. He had to explain to me that it’s the over the counter non-hallucinogenic part of marijuana that’s supposed to help you sleep among other wonder cures. It certainly worked for him so I’m going to look for it when I get home!

***

Now after a rigorous screening we’re in the lounge waiting for our 2:10 flight. The gates are only posted one hour before the flight...security I guess...so we’re here with a herd of waiting people. Peter and I are both relaxed and really excited about this trip...tight airplane seats aside.

Sitting in the travelers’ salon, waiting until precisely 1:10 for our gate notice, we’re a part of a sea of privileged refugees from the traumas of travel. The area has become an encampment with luggage stacked everywhere...some opened to reveal underwear and cosmetics and bubbling over children’s gear. Mine is open to show off my huge 4 week supply of assorted medications. My purse and Peter’s bag have spilled out onto the seat between us...zip-locked bags of carrots and chocolate covered almonds and several kinds of chargers. We ate our chicken and roasted pepper sandwiches on the flight over last night so we’re starting to get hungry. Everybody seems to be eating. Pret A Manger is just around the corner where we can get sandwiches and salads for a surprisingly good price.

***

The short flight from Heathrow to Geneva was great for napping and we easily got our one piece of shared luggage and pulled it and our 2 carry-ons to the train connection to Martigny. Now, the super slick, super quiet bullet glides through the the manicured rolling hills toward the Alps. Apricot and apple orchards, just on the verge of ripe, completely covered in netting, are on the left...and then appears fields of sunflowers, dried and bent over...exhausted from following the sun every day of summer. On down the way they’re being harvested for their seeds.

Huge Lake Geneva is on our right. It stretches for miles in an arc to the south-east and we can see the Alps of France rise up on the farther side with lots of very expensive houses nestled in the folds and down on the shoreline. The sparkling lake is full of sailboats out to catch the last winds of summer.

2. Switzerland-Italy *Champex...

Dear friends Sallie and Martin and grandson Nathan met us at the station in Martigny...a warm and happy welcome! Sallie’s daughter Sarah (my goddaughter over whose baptism Peter and I met!) and 2 more of her kids, Nell and Charlotte, met us at a pizza place. Simon was playing soccer and Papa Charles was working. Good pizza and family chatter began to blur. So after the 28 switch-back climb to Champex we collapsed into bed.

THURSDAY…

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What a beautiful day in a beautiful place!

We were up at a reasonable 8:15 and out on the balcony watching the fishermen on the lake. Sarah’s family is living in the apartment below while their chalet is being renovated and Sallie and Martin are in the chalet they bought just down the hill from Sarah’s. Everything is in easy walking distance in this tiny town that hugs one side of Champex Lac. The ski lifts and hiking trails on the mountains around us make Champex a very popular spot. This morning there are lots of hikers...some headed out after over-nighting in one of these fabulous inns. Most of those hearty people are wearing short sleeves but I’m putting on a sweater.

Because there’s so many travelers here, Sarah opened a little store… Vachement Suisse...that’s open in the afternoons for hikers and skiers who’ve settled in for the evening. She sells everything terribly Swiss...that’s what Vachement Suisse means…so there’s wool felted slippers in beautiful colors, and terribly chic sunglasses, and lots of choices of fun t-shirts designed by Sallie and Sarah, and lip balms, and fondue pots, and coo-coo clocks, and children’s things, aaannndd much more. Check it out on the web!

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Walking through the village up to Sallie’s and the construction site above, we stopped into the tiny grocery (amusingly called a supermarket) for sausages and cheese to add to the salad for lunch. I love sitting down for lunch...sharing a board...looking each other in the eye and chatting. It’s so good for us.

And today especially because we got to chat with almost 4 year old Charlotte who has lots to say and is very entertaining! After lunch she was determined to teach us Ticket To Ride though it was way over her head.

A beautiful walk around the other side of the lake brought us back to Mimi’s Lounge run by Charles and his sister Marie in honor of their mother Mimi who ran a restaurant in Champex for years. We sat out on the patio with wine and beer soaking up the last of the sun before it slipped behind the mountain. What a lovely leisurely day to get our mountain legs under us!

Dinner for the retired folks was at the Alpina Hotel while Sarah and Charles got the children ready for their first day of school on Friday.

I hate to rhapsodize but I must…

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...cozy inside...looking out at the fading light sliding over the glacier...golden, then lavender, then grey. Really there are not enough words for the grandeur.

1st course: delicate cod settled in a dark broth topped with mascarpone and leek    mousse on a wisp of toast...all scattered with radish sprouts...lightly pink on the edges. Local white wine

2nd course: thinly sliced succulent beef arranged around a cone of quinoa sautéed in new olive oil with cubes of carrots, peppers and cornichon...all of this topped with fried onion rings. Local red wine.

Dessert: white chocolate mousse in a cookie cylinder covered with creme fraiche and berries impaled with a thin cookie spear.

A fabulous meal in a splendid setting with dear friends… the perfect end to our first day in Champex!

3. Switzerland-Italy *A brief interlude...

Monday...yes the NEXT Monday...for just a moment…

Leaving Switzerland. Just changed trains in Brig and and got on the Italian train to Domodossola. The last 3 days have been so fun and busy there was no quiet time to write but the train is the perfect place to reflect.

OK- I’m usually really annoyed when I have to change seats. Since we didn’t know how to read the electronic tickets on our phones we just sat down...of course in the wrong place...wrong car...wrong seats. But voila! Our real seats are across the aisle from an extraordinary couple that I wouldn’t have wanted to miss! The fifty-ish woman has on a pretty ordinary tight black jogging suit and turquoise and fuschia tennis shoes. Her fingers are full of diamond rings and have loooonnnggg unpolished nails. But her “hair” was unbelievable. The thick 60’s bangs are neon pink and then all of the sides and back are shaved to the skin...except for the very puffy sideburns...neon pink. But on TOP the hair is divided into 1” sections and braided into 18” long PLASTIC TUBING the size of my index finger! Some are clear pink, some white sparkles, and some multi-colored sparkles! She keeps flipping it around like a valley girl, WAY outdoing My Little Pony. Her gentleman escort is your normal kind of goth guy in black leather jeans and jacket with a mop of black hair hanging over shaved sides and green and black checked glasses.

Not much shocks me but I’ve never seen plastic tubing for hair before.

So back, back to Champex…

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Friday morning was grey and lovely and after the fog burned off it became sparkling and cool.

We all felt we deserved our lovely lunch out on a patio. Sarah and Sallie and I had a delicious flat bread with vegetables while Peter and Martin had roti...a plateful of hash browns and sausage covered in grated cheese (this IS Switzerland) and topped off with a sunny-side-up egg...the healthy choice.

 

By the time we got back up all the switchbacks to Champex the kids were home from school, so we played games and prepped dinner. There was so much chicken we had to use the oven upstairs in our apartment. Sarah’s rental kitchen is tiny but we still had fun cooking together and dinner was yummy and full of family cheer.

 

 

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So Sarah, Sallie, Martin and Peter and I headed off for their easiest hike through sloping vineyards and up into the forest. Hmmmm...Sallie is a mountain goat and I am a turtle. She likes to forge ahead...I like to stop and look at every little thing and take pictures. She doesn’t even breathe heavily and I’m sweating buckets. I hated to slow them down, so after walking across the top of narrow rock walls and climbing steep steps, I peeled off ⅔ of the way up, and Martin...being the gentleman he is...escorted me back down through the breathtaking scenery to the town below while S&S&P climbed even higher and went through the woods back to town.

 

 

4. Switzerland-Italy *Saturday...Meuh (Moo) Day

Saturday was Mud Race Day in Orsieres down in the valley where the older kids go to school. Nathan (13) and Simon (10) were entered with their friends as two teams. There didn’t seem to be too much rigid organization considering this is Switzerland, but everything ran pretty smoothly. There were large tents for teams to gather, and places to shower afterwards and several well run food tents and plenty of porta-potties. Sarah and Peter and Nell and Charlotte and I were ready to follow the fun with our umbrellas and mud boots or flip-flops on. As we got our bearings we realized that this was a HUGE event! Nineteen obstacles were stationed at 100-200 yard intervals along a trail zig-zagging up onto the lower slope of the mountain. Start times were every 2 hours starting with the Minis and several hours later ending with the Extremes. Simon was ending just as we got there. He’d taken the bus down at 7:00 a.m....in the dark...in the drizzle...these guys are tough!

So there we were, watching over 3,000 Swiss and French...all ages...all fitness levels...running around this course...slogging through mud pits...laughing and crying...all in team COSTUMES! Nathan’s team entered the holding pen dressed in white t-shirts and black pants with drawn on mustaches since their stick-on ones kept falling off. They were the youngest...most of the 300 or so in their group were adults. A deejay warmed them up with loud music and singing and jumping to the beat, and then at the countdown they scrambled over a 10’ bank, dropped to the other side and were off...costumes flying in the light rain. Each team had a theme...LOTS of cows, most made of spotted painters suits or footie pajamas..LOTS of unicorns accomplished in many different ways...a chicken with a dozen eggs (white pillow slips with a big yellow dot on the belly)...4 guys dressed in Biblical garb carrying olive branches...a Viking couple complete with long braids and horned helmets...a group of middle aged women in flannel nightgowns and caps with neck pillows snapped on...more cows and unicorns...super-heroes and heroines who stopped in the middle for a smoke and a beer...a bunch of fruits- one pineapple, one strawberry, one watermelon slice, one apricot...a pair of collared priests with a pair of habited nuns...and my favorite...a wedding party- bride and bridesmaids. They all looked pretty good when they took out but by the time they got back a couple of hours later there wasn’t much left of the costumes.

There were very few of us watching. Everyone in the valley seemed to be participating. We tried to cut across fields to catch a glimpse of Nathan, sometimes even walking on the course to get from obstacle to obstacle...all involving water and mud...

  • a 200’ terraced bank to climb

  • A 20’ wide mud pond to cross with plywood ramps to scramble up

  • 4 barrel rolls dumping most people in the mud

  • 2 slides- one around 200’ down ending in a stop at the bottom of plywood padded with 4 old mattresses...this was closed down after a guy slid under them and broke his ankle

We didn’t make it to most of the traps because none of us really wanted to climb the upper slopes in the rain. Peter was the hero of the day carrying Charlotte on his shoulders, and I KNOW he wasn’t up to the climb.

But we saw enough to get a glimpse of the spirit of these people. All of this is just for fun...no charity...no winner...just fun...costing somewhere around $30-$50 per person to enter. I’ve never seen so many people working so hard while having so much fun and acting so silly! I was exhausted just tromping around watching. Nell and Charlotte were troupers! They never complained. They never asked for food. And they were even willing to use the porta-potties.

Sallie and Martin had opted for a calmer morning so they welcomed us home with hot tea and coffee. We were all wet and muddy whether we ran or cheered. S&M had moved all of Peter’s and my stuff over to the Alpina Hotel to make room for a rental in the apartment, so we went over and settled in there.

In the late afternoon we all gathered around the table for a family Eucharist. Simon and Nathan told their favorite Old and New Testament  stories and sang a selection in French from their choir. Peter gave a tiny homily tying it all together and we shared communion. I will always hold dear the memory of those fully attentive children...singing and smiling and peaceful.

Then the noise revved up and we ate Sarah’s yummy acorn squash soup and salad. Nell ate 4 bowls and Charlotte 3. We were full and happy and tired and fell into bed early.

5. Switzerland-Italy *Sunday in Champex

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Sunday morning and church is already over? Not what I’m used to.

But this morning there’s another event pointing out to me that I could never be Swiss… a triathlon beginning with swimming across Champex Lac and back in water 4 degrees warmer than the minimum allowed by the event. The 70 or so people who climbed out of that glacial lake were stunned. They had on wetsuits but their hands and feet were blue. I guess the 8’ long, wooden alphorns were supposed to cheer them on, but I don’t think they even noticed. Bags of their clothes were hanging on racks of bicycles waiting for them. They stumbled up to their gear and stripped off the wetsuits...some down to bare naked... dressed again and jumped onto their bikes. The flags on their backs showed that most of them were French. I guess I could never be French either.

We warmed up back at Sarah’s with coffee and hot chocolate. Sallie and Martin and Peter went for a walk while Sarah and I designed a new t-shirt for her shop. Vintage styles seem to be popular so we tried for that look.

Then after lunch I bought lots of Christmas presents in Vachement Suisse. Sarah’s brought great warmth and charm to her shop but because it’s so small she wanted some “outside eyes” to settle it a bit. So I stayed with her while everyone else went to the park. I had SO much fun! Nothing I love more than rearranging things!

Sunday dinner was everyone’s favorite...salmon pasta. Sadly, after dinner we said goodbye to the older children as we all went to bed. It was a wonderful thing for Peter and me to be folded into this creative, energetic and Spirit filled family. I love every one of them! It is an amazing blessing to spend such quality time with old friends!

We said a sad farewell to everyone else Monday morning as they put us on the train for Italy.

6. Switzerland-Italy *Italia! Amici!

The woman with the plastic tube hair was definitely the highlight of the train to Florence...though I do love rolling past Lago Maggiore. The islands are like encrusted jewels rising up out of the lake covered with palazzos and surrounded by yachts, and the shore is filled with pink and yellow and blue hotels all trimmed in white gingerbread. Lots of movies made there.

*** From here on will be stories in categories because life was moving so fast I couldn’t find time to write!

People...the most important part!

***Suzanne and Giovanni and Isabella and Matteo! Peter and I just slid into the Lambardi household and melted into their family. We felt so at home because Suzanne chose to save us a bus or taxi ride and picked us up at Santa Maria Novella Station instead of fussing over dinner. We just opened the fridge and put what we found on the table...a feast!

The kids have grown since last summer and are absorbed in games and phones...Matteo taught Peter how to play some soccer game on the TV. Giovanni’s a teacher...Suzanne’s working on a global wedding planning team...so we are lucky to grab a little of their time. The elder Lambardi live upstairs, so Peter and I went up and chatted for a while. They are so lovely. They’ve shared their home on the Island of Elba with us several times...including for S&G’s wedding. The huge terraced garden and house there are just below Napoleon’s house of exile and look out onto the sparkling Mediterranean. We are so lucky to know them...for many reasons!

***Edgar Sasuman was our beloved sacristan during our stay at St James. Ed’s house behind the church was renovated over the winter so he took us on a tour. It’s, of course, filled with IKEA cabinetry because they really know how to fit out a small space. Ed’s a grandfather now and talking about retirement. He’s the only person who’s figured out how to gracefully weather all of the strong personalities that have come through those gates for the last 25 years.

***Betty and Cesare Nadalini...our travel buddies for so many Italian adventures, are embarking on the new adventure of caring for their 2 grandchildren...Betty Ann (5) and Jonah (7). School started for them on Friday out in the Tuscan countryside near B&C’s house, so we had a couple of days to play UNO and watch some movies and go for nature hikes. Peter also had some occasions to use his famous parenting skills…”the Vulcan death grip” and “monitored time out”.

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***Susanna, Massimo, and Sarah of the Albion Hotel and Le Boscarecce have made us a part of their family for 25 years. They were the first Italians to welcome us to Florence when we moved to the church a block from their hotel. They have housed us, fed us, and taught us Italian, cooking and horticulture...and culture in general for that matter. Susanna and I even worked together running an adult craft program at their country in for a few summers. She’s always made wacky things but my favorite is her new self-portrait as a tea cozy! Staying out Le Boscarecce for 5 days this visit with our friends Mary and Rick and Deb was a real treat for all of us...even Susanna who loves to make fabulous food for us and tell stories and LAUGH. Massimo and Sarah helped us in Florence with whatever we couldn’t figure out on our own.

***Mary Howe, Rick Stein, Deborah Howe...you just can’t make old friends any more! These people are the impetus for this trip. They had planned to be with friends in a villa in Suveretto for a week and we tacked on another with them in Tuscany. Deb, unfortunately, got the grip and ended up staying with us instead of heading off to Venice as she’d planned. Too bad for her...good for us. Even through her painful ears she was a great traveler! Rick even left his bicycle in its case and went to hill towns with us, Mary and me babbling all the way.

***Jim and Priscilla  Kaufman are part of our forever Florence family. Our children were friends and because we enjoy each other so much, we’ve kept in touch as Peter and I have moved around and they’ve stayed in Florence. Our brief visit was full of laughter and poignancy and tears as we remembered those good ole days.

***Caroline Ridomi was our wacky neighbor across the street from St James. I say “wacky” lovingly! She has a unique take on Florence life because when her husband died soon after we came to Florence to live, she inherited the fabulous palazzo and decided to stay in Tuscany for her 3 Italian/English daughters, and use her many rooms for a B&B. She’s pretty much given up on that now, but offered us a room when we decided that train connections would be easier from there. DInner at our favorite pizza place was great...catching up on her views of world politics and the Anglican Church.

***Christina Caughlin and David Massai are another couple that Peter married in Florence. But more importantly Christina was Peter’s “secretary” who kept him in line and translated and transcribed everything for him. She’s a jewel!! Peter and I took the bus out to Christina and David’s beautiful home in the country and shared lots of gelato with them and their boys, Luca and Elio…out in the yard overlooking the apple and olive trees. My heart was warmed.

***Alex Turpin is a new friend for me but has known Peter for a couple of years. I met him at Shoki and Sam Morgan’s this summer at one of their expansive suppers in Oyster Bay. Alex is a 3rd year seminarian at the American Seminary in the Vatican. He gave us a rare tour of the incredible campus way up on the hill from St Peter’s where you can see all of Rome stretched out 360 degrees. He’s also an art history student so tromping around Rome with him was extra fun!

7. Switzerland-Italy *Bathrooms

I’d say that plumbing is one of the few things I WANT  to change in Italy. Keep the cobblestone streets, the creaking heavy doors, no-car walking zones, and even multi-storied climbs up with suitcases, but bathrooms?...their old world charm is limited. I know that changing the operating systems is costly and improbable, and it will never be OK to put any paper into the pipes but the availability of clean and comfortable toilets has evolved.

I think San Gimignano gets the award for the most beautifully integrated loos. Carved into a niche under stone arches, they plugged in sleek marble bathrooms with a 50 cent turnstile. There is some confusion as to how to get out but people aren’t so desperate at that point.

Siena’s got a great bathroom right in the parking lot but the machine ate 1.75 euro before admitting me for my 50 cent visit.

Vinci has just gone overboard and sleeked up and modernized the whole Leonardo museum along with the toilets. I really do miss the old charm...even the bathrooms.

Bathing was always a great  experience but the best lingering bath award goes to the multi-jetted deep soaking tub at Hotel Alpina in Champex. After all that walking and climbing my quivering legs relaxed and I slept like a rock.

Suzanne and Giovanni have the most unusual tub. She called it the monkey tub. If you curl into a fetal position and use the shower wand you can get a bath but I tried standing on the rounded bottom and had a very quick rinse. To be fair...they did have another shower...outside across the patio. So many of these ancient buildings were built with little or no plumbing, so you have to be happy with what you can fit in.

And bidets...there are many uses…

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  • Foot washing after dusty streets

  • Clothes washing when you run out of underwear

  • A place to put the toilet paper that’s hard to reach behind you

  • A place to put all of your extra toiletries

  • A foot prop to tie your tennis shoes

  • Or a plant stand

 

Bathrooms are a renowned places for accidents so that’s where I had mine. Peter and I stayed in the villa in Suvereto one night with Mary and Rick and Deb and Doreen and Dan because who wants to drive through the hills after an evening of eating and drinking? But I swear that’s not what caused the slip up...literal slip UP. I had on my reading glasses (I don’t know why) when I entered the bathroom with my hands full of stuff, and as I reached over to put it all in the bidet (of course) I didn’t see the 3” step up and before I knew it I was flipped around on my bum with my elbow in the toilet and one flip-flopped foot feeling broken. I’m pretty sure I yelled something inappropriate. Everyone came running. Rick brought me an ice pack and Mary a spray bottle of CBD oil so the next morning, after a good night’s sleep, I only had a black big toe and a huge bruise on the toilet arm.

8. Switzerland-Italy *Cars and sightseeing

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Cars are always an issue in Italy...where to park, how to go around the thousands of new round-abouts (it’s like the transportation department just realized how nifty they are), shifting going up steep switch-backs, fitting everyone into the ¾ sized car, and trying not to get hit by one as a pedestrian. And space is always an issue with luggage. When  we left the country Rick and I drove the car into Florence with the luggage while Mary and Deb and Peter took the train!

After the first week of our adventure Peter and I joined Mary and Rick and Deb in their rental car to tour hill towns. They were defiantly tired of driving so Peter and I took over. And once Peter stopped channeling Mario Andretti we were all pretty comfortable driving from Le Boscarecce every day to visit Tuscan towns.

We did have one great car experience riding with Cesare Nadalini in his new Citroen. It’s so great! I want one! The windshield went way up into the roof with a well engineered sunshade that pulled down. There were sunscreens on the back passenger windows and two flip up seats in the luggage area...French design!

Sightseeing…

It’s hard to beat an Alpine Lake ringed with ever changing light on the mountains. And the view from the seminary next to St Peter’s in Rome is astounding... but it didn’t bring my soul peace the way the Alps did. Aaannd... the layer after fading layer of hills and hill-towns in Tuscany are special and calming to me...until I begin to imagine the the armored men riding around fighting for that land for so many years. All of these places settle somewhere in my heart.

I love San Gimignano and can go back and back despite the crowds of tourists. There’s a lot of cheap souvenirs but also SO many artisans doing beautiful work in silver, pottery, linen and wool, olive wood, and now washable paper. Plus...fabulous ice cream! We didn’t eat lunch...just ice cream. Oh, yes, and there are the gorgeous medieval towers and my second favorite duomo with walls filled with Old and New Testament frescoes and a Ghirlandaio chapel. The tall buildings and narrow streets pull your eyes upward so it is possible to ignore the teeming masses.

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Siena has my very favorite duomo. Charcoal black and creamy white stripes folding and bending around columns and across apses form a framework for all of the frescoes and the gorgeous gold star studded ceiling. And then after swirling around in the lofty space, you look down at the FLOOR! Usually only one or two marble sections are uncovered at a time but in September it’s all open and the softer marbles are roped off to keep people from walking on them.

 

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The floor is a combination of graffito (incised lines filled with black stucco and mineral pitch) and marble intarsio (colored marble inlay) all surrounded by patchwork marble borders. (Yes, Rick, I looked up the technical info after our conversation.) I’ve been there so many times and have never gotten to see the major floor work in the center crossing. I was so blown away by the delicate lines and beautiful drawings that I took lots of pictures for reference...the books just don’t do it justice. (Thus the giant picture above.) All in all it was a really inspiring visit.

For lunch in Siena we had sandwiches made at a salumeria and sat on the sloping brick campo with groups of tourists from all over, including a curious group of women all dressed in polka dots and red feather boas...maybe they were a dance troop. The campo is the shell shaped center of town where the palios take place twice a year, when each contrada or district sends out a blessed horse and bareback rider to run the very dangerous race.

I have always loved going to Vinci to see the museum collection of Leonardo’s inventions. It’s had a feeling of stepping back into his world...kind of a workshop feeling. But now they’ve modernized the museum and taken away the authenticity without adding any information. I really want to see those machines in action...I really want to understand how all those spirals and screws and strings make something happen. But ...no...they just slicked up the environment. And his house is really pathetic. I want to see how he might have lived, but there’s only a few artifacts and photos of things and a hologram of him floating around ...a ghost of a mediocre actor telling his life story.

I don’t need to take anybody back to Vinci.

But Peter and I DID find a wonderful and meaningful new museum in Florence…the Museo degli Innocenti in Piazza Santissima Annunziata.  Outside, in the wall, is a turnstile, hmmm...how to describe it. It’s a wooden round table like a small version of an air-lock glass turnstile to get into a bank lobby… and, for centuries, abandoned babies have been placed there and wheeled around into the arms of the cloistered nuns inside who cared for them...sometimes to adulthood. Now there is a museum in the old “hospital” that celebrates the people inside who have worked and lived there. It’s very touching. Even the parents who had to give up their children are honored. Most of the babies came in with a trinket or something that could be identified later so that a parent could retrieve a child if their circumstances improved. There is a file to look up all the information from the past to try to locate family members and a notice board to write any comment you might have. One person wrote a tearful thank you to the nuns and to her grandmother who had reclaimed her father who had lived there for several years in the 1940’s. Not only is the museum beautifully done, the building interior is a real treat.

Our time in Firenze was short, but even a bit of time is transforming for me. I love the smell of old concrete and stone and the intimacy of the narrow streets. Walking around the duomo and catching glimpses of the dome down an alley never gets old. I can always spend time in my favorite art supply store, Zecchi, right down from Michelangelo’s workshop, now a restoration and replica studio or visit a new favorite… Enoteca Bellini on Via Della Spada across from the Marino Marini Museum (another of my favorites). Camilla Bellini was in our youth group!... and now she’s the smiling proprietor of this great place for an aperitivo and a snack.

9. Switzerland-Italy *Food!

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I don’t know of a restaurant in the US where we can spend 2 hours chatting with an adorable 7 year old who taught Peter the game she was playing, eat fabulous food...fish and eggplant lasagne, crusty herb pizza bianca, shrimp and artichoke pasta, fresh arugula salad, red wine from Abruzzo, perfect tiramisu, crispy apple strudel, and espresso, AND get to see Hannah’s high school teacher, Inka (who’s daughter has been our table hostess) AND be warmly greeted and served by Inka’s husband Gianni...and not pay a penny for the experience. We would have been happy to pay for such a splendid meal but Peter married Inka and Gianni years ago and we STILL eat free. The respect for the priest in Italy is endless! Ristorante Accademia- Piazza San Marco...don’t miss it!

I’ve already expounded on the fabulous food we ate in Switzerland but I want to say, and reiterate, that the food we ate at the tables of our friends, usually a group effort with lots of love and laughter, was the BEST. We just happen to have friends who are great cooks and I always learn something new from them.

Betty Nadalini never fails to have a new take on an old favorite. She taught me this time how to make risotto in the pressure cooker, how to clean porcini the RIGHT way and a new way to prepare eggplant. Sitting around their table is always a treat, so I was really pleased when she said she’d host our friends staying in the villa at Suvereto on Saturday afternoon. Mary and Rick and Doreen and Dan drove an hour to us through the hills that Rick and Dan had been biking for a week, leaving poverina Deb at the villa with an earache.

There’s not much better than good friends having a multi-coursed meal on a terrazzo with a view to the north of a Tuscan hill town and a panoramic view to the west of the Island of Elba rising out of the Mediterranean. Betty and Cesare served us Spumante with perfect bruschetta and thin, thin sliced eggplant roasted and crispy. The primo was porcini risotto...so good we didn’t want to go to the next course. Secondo was thin sliced juicy roast beef and rosemary roasted potatoes, and then a salad. And for dessert, peaches marinated in red wine with cookies. Then there’s always coffee and chocolates to let us linger longer at the table. All of it was so good, after our guests left we got it out again and ate more for supper! Thank you Betty and Cesare for sharing your beautiful place and fabulous food!

And then there’s Susanna Ballarini’s food at Le Boscarecce. Mary and Rick and Deb and Peter and I spent 5 nights out at Susanna and Massimo’s country inn in the Tuscan hills. Not only is it the perfect location to drive out every day for sightseeing but you get to return for Susanna’s amazing dinners. Several times we said…”No, I think this is the best!” We ate her famous liver pate, pappa al pomodoro, roast pork, mushroom pasta, artichoke pasta, squash soup, gnocchi with butter and sage, panna cotta, lemon cake… M&R&D&P...what have I left out?...oh yes...chicken and mushroom baked in clear plastic pouches gathered up like a present on your plate!

The breakfast spread at Le Boscarecce is pretty fabulous too. The opulent buffet had pretty much everything you can think of including ricotta and spinach soffles, full fat yoghurt with fresh berries, and homemade breads, granolas, and breakfast cakes… and hot dogs.

Suzanne and Giovanni made Peter and me a splendid meal served out on their beautiful terrace. Giovanni kept bringing out plate after plate of antipasti...perfect prosciutto and melon, liver pate, salami, cheeses including my favorite, buratta. Then he came out with a whole fish baked in crusted salt with roasted potatoes. It was so succulent I can still taste it! We finished with ice cream and a torta made by Giovanni’s father just for us...except he’s gotten hungry and eaten half of it.

Out in Suvareto the caretaker of the villa, Luciano, made us an all cinghiale dinner...it was a LOT of wild pork!

  • Antipasto: cinghiale pate on toast

  • Primo: pappardelle al cinghiale

  • Secondo: cinghiale stew with roasted potatoes

  • Dolce: Mary’s lovely biscotti with vin santo

Before dinner Doreen had said she’d make a salad, but Luciano said “Why would we need that?” Despite the richness it was all very good.

Sharing favorite restaurants with friends is also really fun. I’ve already mentioned Sallie and Martin sharing the fabulous Alpina with us in Champex...hard to beat!

But in Florence...

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Giovanni, Suzanne, Isabella, and Matteo walked us over to their favorite food stand in San Ambrosio Market. Tables radiate out around the kitchen so you can watch all the action. As soon as we sat down, before we even ordered, the owner (who looks just like Jon Stewart) brought Isabella her favorite plate of pappa al pomodoro. I had a selection of all the vegetables of the day and their famous poached pear coated in crunchy caramel. I was having so much fun sitting across from Isabella eating that I really don’t know what everyone else ordered.

We shared two of our favorite places with Rick and Mary and Deb and they shared one of theirs that was new to us…

Mario’s behind the Central Market is so well known that there’s always a line, but it gives everyone a chance to chat and give advice to newcomers about the menu. If you sit in the crowded old space, you may sit with other people you don’t know but we were taken down to the cantina where it’s quieter and actually has menus for the table instead of the paper wall chart upstairs. We had their very delicious ribolitta and pork roast and salads and roasted potatoes and sautéed spinach...yum. We’ve eaten there a few hundred times ( at least 3 times a month for 9 years and then visits back?) and it’s always great Tuscan comfort food.

Casalinga off of Piazza Santo Spirito is an old classic. We settled into a table next to the bar and had the BEST waitress...straight out of an Italian movie...never wrote anything down...always a wry comment. I’d go back just for her. But the FOOD at Casalinga is sumptuous. Casalinga means “housekeeper” so you get all of the old Tuscan specialties… antipasti of prosciutto, lardo, olives and cheese, then slabs of toast rubbed with garlic topped with white beans with sage poured over with new olive oil, bresaola (dried beef) simply covered in arugula and olive oil, roast pork, sautéed spinach...so...so good!

And then Mary and Deb’s discovery on Borgo Ognissanti...a bar spread out onto the sidewalk with an $8 wine or cocktail that comes with quite a spread of antipasti. There were a few places like this with aperitivi when we lived there but now there seem to be many. I used to go to the Rotunda with my book club but it was always noisy and hectic. Because Ognissanti is quiet, this sidewalk setting was very pleasant, the nibbles very good, and the company...of course, very dear.

After our visit to Vatican Hill we rode the bus out to Rome’s equivalent of East Austin where Peter had copied off the names of the featured places on a 70 euro tour...we thought we could tour ourselves. They were bakeries and salumarias, and a restaurant that was closed, and the market place, which was a smaller and newer version of San Ambrosio in Florence…and not as charming. But the booth selling pasta and risotto was good and the experience was completely neighborhood...no tourists.

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Roma! After we parted with all our friends, Peter and I had one day in Rome and the first night went with Alex Turpin to Broccoletti on Via Urbana. Our adorable AirBnB hostess is a screenwriter for TV and knew exactly the hip place to send us. Via Urbana is a very interesting street full of enticing shops and laughing young people. Fortunately we got there early and put our name in because Broccoletti is a popular small place that filled up as soon as we got in. Their spaghetti alle vongole and truffle risotto were perfect for primi. Then Peter had fried seafood while I had an exquisite swordfish with a pistachio sauce AND the most beautiful plate of vegetables… radicchio, snow peas, white cabbage, kale, green beans, zucchini flowers all interspersed with dollops of various sauces. Alex...what did you have? I was so busy I can’t remember.

After sadly packing our stuff back into our 3 very small bags (even including all of the fun Christmas presents) we went out for one last fish supper right around the corner from the BnB. Some radicchio orecchiette and risotto, fried octopus and sautéed fish, spinach and zucchini, panna cotta and fruit (it was the menu del giorno)...we figured we’d eaten enough and should go back to San Marcos. The picture above is our parting shot of the sunset reflecting off of Santa Maria Maggiore from our window. 

10. Switzerland-Italy *Rome-San Marcos

Good thing we’d decided not to eat any more, because the Rome airport is a VERY tempting place. It’s the most fun layover place ever! There are gorgeous spreads of Italian products...leather, perfume, shoes, textiles, and food, food, food. People are wandering around like it’s Disneyland. And I have to admit they’ve created that impulse that says “You’re leaving Italy...it’s your last chance!” I think I could LIVE in the airport.

The fifteen hour flight Rome to Dallas was loooonnnng but we watched several movies apiece and drank a lot of water. Hannah picked us up in Austin and got us safely back home...back to the realities of life.

With all of the “natural” disasters and craziness in our world, we know how fortunate we are to go on an adventure like this. We’re grateful for all of the people who take up the slack when we’re gone and hope that our refreshment will make us better citizens and more aware of the needs of those around us.

San Miguel de Allende, Mexico...March 2017

     It's rare...at least for me...to get to spend self-indulgent time away from the responsibilities and cares of my family life. As an artist I carve out time...sometimes a whole day or week...to work in my studio and that is certainly a zone where I set aside those bags of issues that I carry around, but a WEEK of schmoozing and shopping and massages with a group of women? ...it never occurred to me. So when Bee Fitzpatrick wrote and asked if I'd like to go to San Miguel de Allende, Mexico with 9 other women... most of whom I know from university days...I thought "Why would I spend all that money on myself? Why would I go to Mexico without my favorite travel partner? Why would I jump into a pool from my past and swim with people, most of whom I haven't seen in 51 years and some I don't even know?" And Peter said "Why not?" He's becoming softer and wiser in his old age.

So, on March 20th I found myself sitting at a gate at the Houston airport waiting for my past to show up. I was texting goodbyes to my family when I heard the soft (though loud) accents of New Orleans float to my ears and I was instantly transported back to a dorm suite in Boaz Hall at SMU.

This is the list from SMU: Bee Ewin Fitzpatrick, Susan Terkuhle Doss, Vail Smith Tessier, Becky McCulloch Davis, Paula Stricklin Bourland, DeeDee Oge Bufe, and ME!

And from University of Texas: Kay Key True, Laurie Teeple Wright, and Windy Withers McCaslin.

Those N.O. accents drew me over to hug Susan and Vail and Bee...and then I looked up and saw Paula and then Becky. All of those bags of home-cares were left at the gate and we laughed and shared stories and headed to Mexico...because these are the women who taught me how to seize the day and LAUGH 51 years ago in Dallas. 

I guess years of travel outside the U.S. made me not surprised at all that it took a couple of hours to get out of the tiny airport at Queretero. The group flying from Dallas was only 20 minutes behind us but there was only one guy at the immigration desk for several flights, so we all gathered slowly around a growing pile of baggage. After Wendy emerged to a round of "Hoorays" we were swept off to San Miguel de Allende (SMA) in 2 white vans. 

I loved the hour drive from Queretero to SMA. It's sweeping and dry with huge swaths of irrigated crops. There's also a bunch of industry popping up here and there. The stop at the bank for pesos was not only unsuccessful but disturbing, since some cards were swallowed up, so we hoped to find more money in SMA since we didn't think we'd last long on the pesos that DeeDee and I brought. 

Going up and down the steep and narrow cobblestoned streets of SMA led us to a wooden door right on the sidewalk (like all of the houses in the old village) at #7 Pila Seca. The brass corncob knocker brought our new best friend Carlos Sanchez to the door... and I pause here...because walking through that door was transforming.

Stepping off the cobblestones into the cool foyer we dropped all our travel weariness and peso fears and were welcomed into a gorgeous villa with 5 opulent bedrooms with private patios and fountains, several gathering places, a pool on the main patio, a gorgeous roof garden with sweeping views, AND a staff to pamper us. Really, I'm afraid I could get used to this. 

So how to decide who gets which room? Somehow we paired up and drew numbers 1-5. #1 Bee and DeeDee of course chose the master suite on the second floor with the free standing bathroom...but really, doesn't Bee deserve that room after all her work for us?...and DeeDee just lucked out. However that's not to say that there was anything wrong with the other rooms...they were all beautiful. Susan and Vail chose a the room on the first floor with all the liturgical stuff (Susan's a clergy spouse and has a brace on her soon-to-be-operated-on knee). Laurie and Kay took a suite on the second floor, Wendy and Paula...a suite up a private set of stone steps, and Becky and I landed in a cool and gorgeous room right next to the kitchen (handy) with an angel sitting on the ledge over the bed to help us sleep. I don't know if it was the angel or the babbling fountain, the ceiling fan, or my noise machine but we slept VERY well.

After settling we were drawn to the patio for cocktails and the cacophony began. Being an introvert, I enjoyed taking notes...

I only applied to one school...got in...closed the book...and had fun.   I like Pinot Grigio!            She was in New Orleans and she didn't CALL me?          I didn't date. I was in the dorm playing cards and smoking.      She puts on nipple covers because she doesn't want to look voluptuous.    Here we are...10 women ...and look how we're all connected!    Is this not beautiful!        When you eat jicama you're losing weight while you eat.     But they CAN find you if your ID is up on the screen at the bank.         Not a little "wet your pants"...full on "wet your pants"       And this is why your dad said "No way are you going to Tulane!"     Yes! Fill it up!   Paula made us all promise that she gets to die first so we can be her mourners.   The debutante got pregnant and they needed a replacement.

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And then Paula, who had thought ahead for all of us, brought out a bag of presents for Bee for organizing all of this for us. 

Oh, Thanks!...is this a dildo?     Is this a pocket for extra change? No, for a panty liner.   You drink too much, you cuss too much, you have questionable morals...you're everything i ever wanted in a friend!                  

Though we'd had a lot of margaritas and wine and guacamole with homemade chips and jicama covered in lime and tajin powder...Carlos called us into the dining room for sea food tacos...mmmm the shrimp and garlic ones were really good. It seemed that everyone was afraid of missing something, so the conversation calmed down...a little.

 

I'm glad I'm not doing that job. I'm glad I'm doing the bar.   Can I be in your play? I can't sing.      Half the stuff I say is total bullshit.            I have one more confession.   Everybody talks at once...that's all you need to know.    I'm eating Susan's cake. I already finished mine.                 I'ts all about the fun!

And that seemed true...the fun. But when someone said...I REALLY have to go to bed!... we all drifted away to our rooms...I think it was 9:30.  

SMA Day 2

Tuesday...I stared out the quiet morning in the roof garden. Years ago, when our family was here for the summer I painted this view...it's changed a bit but the mountains in the distance are still there.

After sipping a cup of tea staring at this gorgeous sight, i want down our first decadent breakfast. Some people had gotten up early for a massage but the rest of us wandered into the dining room at 8:30. Fresh fruit, fresh squeezed orange juice, pancakes, French toast, eggs any way you can think of with re-fried black beans and toast...any combination of the above...Carlos was waiting for orders. By the second morning he knew who took tea, who wanted coffee and what you wanted in it...PLUS he's got a great sense of humor to keep up with us. Esperanza and Lorena had come earlier to fry up piles of bacon and sauté mushrooms...so they were READY for short order. 

I don't remember getting dinner last night. You don't remember getting dinner?           (What's her name?)                                                         I don't remember eating either! Well, you didn't. You went to bed.         Well, I can't remember...I only had 2-3 wines.                                                                                       I tried to put my foot down on the floor but I couldn't reach it.      He was really cute and he had a really soft neck.                              That's all- we just made out one night.  I was wild but all I did was kiss.    Who DIDN'T you make out with?                                                                              I'm sorry. We don't kiss like that in New Orleans. I've been kissed before but we don't do THAT! You spoke for the WHOLE CITY?                                                                                                                  Did you have fun? Yes, but he blew in my ear!   You're an only child? Yes, but you didn't know because I'm so nice.  

Next on the agenda...walking tour. 

Man, I forgot how hilly SMA is! Poor Susan in her knee brace decided that she'd go on her own self-regulated tour and the rest of us headed out with Helene Kahn for a walking tour. I liked her from the get-go. She's lived in SMA for over 20 years and her Jewish heritage has given her a passion for art and history that is inquisitive and humorous...and she had a gentle but strong control of the group. 

I'm going to give you my 10 minute Virgin lecture.    That's all we need ...it's been a long time.

Helene lead us up and over the hills of SMA pointing out churches and her favorite places to eat and shop...including the very important churros and hot chocolate shop. We thanked her...and paid her, and I think everybody else went to lunch on the corner by our house. I went back for a altitude induced nap. 

We all wanted to see some more houses like ours, so a local rental agent took us to Casa Hyder, billed as the most popular wedding venue in the Americas...??? The villa has 10 bedrooms, multiple comfy lounging spots, a large pool, a lawn for weddings, and beautiful roof gardens... every inch of it covered with artifacts, masks, textiles and art from all over the world...and all of this is visually held together by luscious dusty red walls, spring green alcoves and mustard colored hallways. It was a feast for the senses. Bee and I live in homes with lots of stuff but as she pointed out later...we were feeling under-decorated. 

A little on overload and hot from the unseasonable heat, we arrived back at #7 Pila Seca to refresh and meet for cocktails! This was our medically themed evening...

I've had 2 breast reductions and a face lift and I feel great!    I got my mother's finger the week after she died!         Just tell me...is it from the genitals of an emu?   No, it's emu OIL.       I can't make it get bigger.      Everything's been injected.       As your vertebrae shrink there's nowhere else for your skin to go...it just settles around your neck. 

We must, we must, we must increase the bust. The bigger the better, the tighter the sweater. We must....It was a tradition at McGehee's.

We need more than one medical night.    No more medical talk!!

Dinner!! We were all looking forward to our rooftop reservation at the trendy restaurant Quince. We settled on a long table under the twinkling stars...and right over the throbbing amplifier for the trendy music put out by the trendy disc-jocky next to us. 

I'm very assertive to the point of being rude sometimes.

Bee got us a new table over in an un-opened area where it was MUCH quieter...and much more under-staffed. But it wasn't our poor waiter's fault. The owner (do I want to post his name?) came over to schmooze us which I thought was charming until he said...

No, actually...I'm really a hedge fund manager.

The kitchen was "busy and confused" We were there over two hours before we got dinner. But of course, we were self entertaining...

The woman with no pesos is ordering lobster.     I'm ordering butter with my lobster. I'm the customer. I get to ask for what I want.                   She knows where the bathroom is...she just went.  No, that was at lunch.    Do you think they went to Maine to get the lobsters instead of the Pacific?   Don't get mad...get even.    (after the waiter said it would be 30 more seconds)... It's been 30 seconds and 2 1/2 hours.

(Part of the proceeds from dessert go to feed the hungry)  We're not going to feed the hungry tonight.  We ARE the hungry.                                      Whatever the dessert is, we're not paying for it.   Our pesos will live to see another day!

Back at our villa I THINK this was when we started playing cards... this may not be when we started but I think we played when we got back from Quince. I've been playing singles Hand and Foot for years but Kay and Laurie play a partners version 2-3 times a week so I was eager to learn. Who remembers who won that first round and who was the 4th? ...someone with a better memory than mine.

We played while others drifted off to bed and we soon followed.                          

SMA Days 3-4

Another day of massages and fabulous breakfasts! And the topic for breakfast was massage. 

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When I was getting a divorce I missed being touched and then I thought...I can PAY for this!                                                                                 I'll tell you what a massage is...it's an hour of foreplay and you don't have to do it.    I know about good sex after a massage!                                                                                                I'm not going naked...we don't do that in New Orleans.     Are we doing males or females? I want a female.                                                      Who doesn't like foreplay? Foreplay's okay about 10 or 11...not at 8.       I didn't even hear Susan...we weren't moaning or anything.                 I said to myself...don't be pissed off...enjoy your massage.   I'm the customer...I'm paying her to give me pleasure.                                              It's time to move on. I have a lot of body parts that need help.            I'm a connoisseur of massages!

My massage that morning actually released all of the pent up toxins and sinus crud that I had been holding onto, so I rested up that morning, writing and reading. I think everyone else was out shopping or lounging. It was beautifully... restfully... quiet.

In the afternoon many of us went to the mask museum. Bill and Heidi Levasseur have turned their passions into a lovely B&B...Casa de la Cuesta and Otra Cara de Mexico... the mask museum. Bill DOES enjoy being glib, but he really has researched the indigenous cultures in Mexico and had a lot to teach us. The museum is small but very interesting...and the shop is even more interesting because you can take masks home...for a price. I LOVE masks and we have quite a few so, of course, unfortunately, the ones I wanted were too expensive this trip. But I did find out that the ones Peter has collected for years are much more valuable than I realized.

Then, back down the hill, our lovely young relator friend, Kathrine Hibberts met us at Casa de Tortuga for a tour. Someone is going to have to remind me...it was Lil's house...and she is a friend of someone...Vail? My memory is dim here. It was a completely different take on the SMA space...much more minimal and calm. It was fun to see how different approaches to similar places can evoke different feelings. I realize that I like "over decorated" space but that doesn't keep me from enjoying walking into more subdued places. 

Cocktail hour!! And our topic of the evening? Marriage, relationships, and family...

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We were JUST good friends.   We actually had our honeymoon BEFORE we got married.                                                                                         We went to Little Dick's and Peter's Island for our honeymoon.                                                                                                                       What do you call those things with the little things on the end?...oh yeh...French ticklers.         You are one lucky S.O.B. to marry Wendy!   Therapist Vail says he just needed to be in control.       Oh yes, you'll loose that baby weight!                                                                    You have to have a pretty good self-image to have Phyllis George as a bridesmaid.                                                                            Speaking of being a bridesmaid...all these years Paula's been sad.    Do you know how much I've suffered all these years?                      If something happens to my husband I want to do something I can't tell my children about.                                                                             I already do things my children don't want to hear about.                                                                                                                                   He told my mother "If she gets pregnant, I'll marry her."

Dinner...I'm sorry...I didn't have my notebook with me so I don't remember what we ate or what we said but I'm sure it was delicious...because everything Esperanza made was delicious, and no doubt many said pithy and hilarious things. But I DO have a wonderful memory of that meal. Paula plucked a rose from the bunch on the table and ceremoniously gave it to me saying that the group wanted me to join them in their sisterhood. It was very touching for me. I have a few intimate groups but they are all mixed genders, I am realizing this late in life that a substantial gathering of women IS very powerful. I am very grateful for this one!

THURSDAY

Mmmm...breakfast. Now everyone wants to try more things...the French toast is particularly amazing. 

Laurie has been buying jewelry in Dallas from someone here in SMA so she made an appointment for a tour of his house and shop. We bundled into taxis and went up, up, up into the hills overlooking the town. Sandwiched in among the steep switchbacks are some pretty amazing homes with elegant landscaping and fabulous views. William Harris and Howard Haynes live almost at the apex in a house that hugs the hilltop and spreads out seamlessly into the garden. They've collected things from all over the world as well as from local Mexican artists. There's a small museum of Mexican art forming in the back of their beautiful garden and Howard has a photo display of celebrities in the garage...I can imagine the discussion about where to put them. As we got on into the house and saw a few pictures I was surprised to find that we had friends in common from our shared past in Kansas City. The beautiful jewelry in their sales space is the work of Bill and Luis Pantoja...mostly silver and stones...therefore the name, Piedras. Of course there was lots of trying on and ooooing and ahhhing...no one to tell us to keep moving. And naturally there were several purchases. 

Onward for more fun! Our taxis whisked us down the hill and out on the edge of town to Fabrica la Aurora... a renovated textile mill with antique shops, artist studio/shops, and specialty shops like linens and jewelry AND a cafe' where we headed first...except for Bee who got hung up in an antique shop. I bought a lovely faded Madonna and Child painted on tin. Peter's already added it to our religious artifacts themed guest bath. 

Well that was a full day of shopping! So everyone  needed a bit of time to spruce up for COCKTAILS!...topic? Philosophies and opinions.

People don't change...she's always trying to make everyone happy.                                                                                                                  What a woman wants is to be treasured...a man wants to be respected.                                                                                                                I'm so much better than I was in my 30's.  You are NOT!   I was so self centered.  Nooooo...   I just hid it well.                                                       Liberals are some of my best friends.   Sometimes people just aren't good Christians.                                                                                          Rick Perry...did he come back?  I wouldn't pay $200 for a little sleeveless blouse!                                                                                                      I thought...I'm in big trouble...but of course, I loved it.    I've never really thought about that!                                                                                                                                               He graduated last at med school and he's STILL practicing!   It's always good to make the therapist in charge of the bar.                                   I love this house because there's space to have a real conversation with each person.

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And that's the truth! We'd been there 72 hours and shopped and eaten and played cards and laughed together and settled into a trusting and close relationship...so lovely.

Now off to The Restaurant...hamburger night... well, of course...not just hamburgers. So-o-ome of us got hung up in the jewelry shop in the front of the gorgeous open courtyard villa...while others of us began to salivate over the menu. A few of us shared burgers since we ordered lots of antipasti ( I use that  instead of hors d'oeuvres because I have to stop and look up how to spell it every time) and we loved the shaved Brussels sprouts so much that we ordered more. That evening was the total pleasant dining experience. We were ordering our antipasti and Vail said...  Should we order our hamburgers now? Do you think the kitchen will be busy and confused?          

Out of chocolate? How about butterscotch pecan bread pudding?  Y'all will have to order another one down there!                                Let's get 2 bottles of rose'.   Did she say just 2 bottles?

I guess we were all enjoying our food so much that we didn't say much...either that or i was preoccupied and didn't write down much. On the way home some of us went by the main plaza to watch the wedding parades.  

Dinner was so relaxed that when we got back to #7 I talked a few people into trying my favorite game, Carcassonne. I've played it a lot but never with such enthusiasm. The competition and land grabbing was fierce. I believe DeeDee was the medieval champion. 

Then a blissful sleep. Becky is the perfect roommate...she's small and stays on her side of the bed and she's fun to chat with.

SMA Days 5-6

Up early! We had a driver and van picking us up after another splendid breakfast...more french toast...more huevos Mexicanos. 

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I was the lucky one...I got to sit in the front seat with our driver Pancho...a man of great humor and patience. He has 4 daughters and all female cats and dogs who have all taught him well. His English is perfect...he said he's just picked it up driving the van for 25 years. As he drove to Dolores Hidalgo we asked about crops and industry we passed...he knew all the answers. He also found the tile store I was looking for in Dolores. I've ordered from there in Austin so it was hard to walk out with 6 drawer knobs and some tiny pots, but my suitcase was already at it's weight limit. I'm going to have to jettison some beauty products...though these ladies HAVE eaten the 4# of chocolate covered almond I brought. 

Pancho also knew to take us to the architectural salvage places along the road. It wasn't going to be easy to bring an ox yoke home for Peter's collection but Susan an Bee got some smaller artifacts. I was buying a Virgin of Guadeloupe printed on tin sign and found out that the vender supplies a store in New Braunfels right down the road from us! I can't wait to get over THERE.

In an effort to give us a little history Pancho took us the Santuario de Atotonilco. In May of 1740 Padre Alfaro was resting in a field in a war ravaged area and had a dream. God told him to build a refuge for peace there and because his father was wealthy he got right to it and completed it in 1748. The inside is covered with wonderful frescos painted by a local Indian man. It was very dear to me how proud Pancho was of this place.

Down a bumpy gravel road off the road between SMA and Dolores Hidalgo is an oddly placed spa/hotel/restaurant... Nirvana. You really have to be looking for this place, but it's worth the hunt. We sat on a long covered patio drinking wine and eating salads and enchiladas and relaxing as if we'd had a hard morning.

And then, of course, we had to get back to rest up for COCKTAILS. Some of us went up the hill to the plaza to see the parade of weddings that seems to happen every Thursday and Friday nights in front of the cathedral.

Still the guacamole and fresh chips rolled out of our kitchen along with the margaritas and wine and we chatted some more...

New Orleans has never done very well with the health food thing.  It's the most divine thing in the whole world...Greenburg turkey pate'.   Every night after work we had guacamole and chips for dinner.      Chico's is for fat old people.                                                                              Thank you so much! So when I tell you that you owe me another $100 tomorrow you won't hate me?                                                                   When you're really having a good time you start planning your next trip.         Was that only yesterday?                                                               It's an orange hat and you're not giving it to me?    Whatever you do, don't tell your mother.   We were all wound up!                                          I had a roommate once who ironed her jeans.  I had a lab partner who was an INDIAN!                                                                             We won't call this week Steel Magnolias...it's Iron Cactus.      

Esperanza made us shrimp and garlic and vegetables for dinner...and an apple cake I think. and some of us played more Hand and Foot...getting to bed a bit later than others.  

Day 6 ...Saturday

YOGA! ...at least for DeeDee, Vail, Bee, Becky, Kay and Marguerite  ...was Susan there? I can't remember, sorry Susan...I want you to get credit if you were.

After yet another yummy breakfast Paula , Laurie, Kay, Becky and Wendy climbed up that steep hill again and went to the open air market. I'm sure there was plenty of shopping done. They later reported a very good lunch at the food court. Susan and Vail wandered and found lots more to buy ( I think Susan went home with twice the bags she came with) and Bee and DeeDee and I went up to La Esquina...the museum of toys and Mexican arts. We were so surprised and delighted. There are 3 floors of a personal collection of toys made from wood, metal, paper mache', clay, straw... vintage and new, large and teensy.. .everything charming. Their shop was tempting! But the things I wanted were just too heavy.

Since we were beginning to feel a bit peckish and the churros and hot chocolate cafe' was on the next block, we succumbed... at least Bee and I did. DeeDee's given up sugar for Lent. Walking home we dropped into several shops picking up a few more things to cram in suitcases. 

Then DeeDee and Bee needed a relaxing bath with their Indonesian sherpas...

Back at #7 many were ready to play Hand and Foot so we sat again out on the gorgeous terrace with the sound of the fountain behind us and played a rousing game.

                                                   Are we playing in pesos or dollars. Wait, I didn't know we were betting!                                                                                                                          It's better to go down if you can go down.  Yes, if you can go down it will help your partner.                                                                               You never know what you're going to get in a pile.  You do if you're paying attention.

As everyone gathered for COCKTAILS the conversation shifted to a bit more philosophy as we realized that we only had one more day...

                                                              Life is short but it's wide!   Never let the rules bog you down.                                                                                                                              I go to bed, I get up and nothing's changed...everybody's still telling everybody else what to do.                                                                          My sister would rather eat it or wear it than sleep in it.       Do you have a  bigger one?                                                                               We've GOT to go to Neiman's right now!      I unhooked my bra to rest and then I couldn't find it!

Another fabulous dinner...steaks... and Esperanza made a lime pie with almonds on top that had been toasted in BACON grease... a very nice touch.

More cards and drifting to bed.                                     

SMA Finale

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Sunday morning...no Carlos...no Esperanza...how could they abandon us? Of course, they'd left us with fresh squeezed orange juice and cut up fruit and the night guard had made a pot of coffee...we were not adrift. Vail went down to the bakery and got pastries for us (thanks barkeep!) and we decided that we liked The Restaurant so much that we'd go back for brunch at noon. 

More shaved Brussel's sprout salads and a chance to try the rest of the tempting things on the menu. I had a lovely plate of local cheeses with guava paste and baguette toast and a side of pot stickers...time to go home to a more sensible diet. 

The afternoon gave us time to wrap up shopping and packing and as we drifted toward the patio to chat we realized that we'd made it a whole week without talking about hair and make-up!! ( I had gone up to DeeDee's bathroom to find out what products she uses to keep her gorgeous hair going.) Peter says it only takes 10 minutes to get talking about hair for the girls in our house...

         I was going to bring my wig ...but I was afraid it would look like a dead animal if they opened my suitcase.                                               I just want to have one flip in my lifetime.   I've always wanted to have a ponytail to flip.       And what about falls? We all had them.                                                                                    How many nights did it take us to start talking about hair?      Side pony tails? We don't do that in New Orleans.                                    ...there goes my wig...right into the lake!       Oh, I've had people stop and ask if they could take a picture of my hair.                                                   None of it's fair. The whiskers come back like roaches.   Wiglet, false eyelashes, girdle, stockings, high heels...                                                                              Oh, I always want to room with DeeDee...she has everything.

Our final hoorah was on the roof of the Rosewood Hotel at the Luna Bar... but it was clouding up big time, so some took taxis and Laurie and Kay and I walked down the hill. ( We walked because it was DOWN) Sitting under the tent, we were sheltered from the mist that started down but we could still see the glorious view of the hillsides surrounding SMA. The sunset was spectacular leaving the mountains a rich smoky purple with a pink halo and making a reflection on the cathedral that was luscious and rosy. It was a beautiful memory to keep.

Just as the chatter was a special memory to keep...

Our food for the week was $60 per person, the rest was liquor!  Cheers to our treasurer Wendy!                                                             Too much is never enough. If one is good 2 is better!   Gin makes me cry.                                                                                                           We're all bossy in certain ways...and it kind of works.   Campari!!                                                                                                                       He ordered a bottle of Mateus. He wanted to make out and maybe get under my blouse.                                                                              At SMU it's "What does your dad do?" and "What kind of car do you drive?"                                                                                                        She was in her seventies...that used to sound so old.    I'm a hot mamma!                                                                                                  There's probably a bathroom on this roof...or I could just go off the balcony.                                                                                                    It's beautiful ambient light!  That's a big word for this late in the trip.                                                                                                                   My mother had a red Cadillac and we made her let us out 2 blocks from school.                                                                                              My parents said "Hallelujah! The last one's out of college!"    Why didn't we have DeeDee do makeovers?      I'd rather drink than eat.                                                My fork has already been taken away...okay, I'll have a bite.   Whatever's easiest...You want me to drink THAT?                                             Oh no, Bee, you drink it!  Enabler!                                                                                                                                                                        Talk about a change in the weather!

And it was! The wind started blowing...the rain began to pour...and the lightning lit up the hills. We moved to the center of the tent to finish our drinks but the storm didn't last long. We figured we'd better make a run for the taxis...and Pila Seca...and packing...maybe we can fit in a card game...

MONDAY

Our last breakfast. Lot's of French toast with eggs on the side...and then another order because...why not. Just as Peter had said to me months ago...why NOT? Why not jump into that pool of the past and find out what's happened to all those other swimmers. It was a heart opening trip that sent me home to responsibilities with a little more "don't sweat the small stuff" and a lot more "seize the day!" and definitely a huge load of "it's never too late!'

Parting at the airport into "Dallas bound" and "Houston bound" was full of affection and pledges to get back together. The Houston group squeezed in one more meal of burgers and lots of fries and wine and martinis...  We're not home yet!  

I thank every single one of these fabulous women for every word of conversation, every hilarious quip, every sincere comment and observation. The character in this group is powerful.

THANK YOU BEE!!!